Flower Pattern Being Embroidered from Jane Bostocke's 1598 English Embroidery Sampler

This 16th century Elizabethan pattern is from an English embroidery sampler by Jane Bostocke (at the V&A Museum) from 1598. Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Usually, it was typically found as black silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch on clothing.

 

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          Picture credit:

Jane Bostocke's sampler: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O46183/sampler-bostocke-jane/sampler-jane-bostocke/

 

 

What is Blackwork Embroidery?

What inspired the creation of blackwork embroidery in the 16th century and what forms of embroidery fall under the category of blackwork, such as Holbein stitch?

 

  Check out my embroidery book! 

16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns 

 

 

 

Black Ink on a Coif that Faded to Blue?

This coif is labelled as a "panel" at the V&A Museum. This particular coif is dated to circa 1600-1630. However, this size and shape of coif was also worn in late 16th century England during the Elizabethan period. The museum describes this coif as "linen with pattern of flowers, birds, insects and animals drawn in blue ink".

 

 

 

 "This coif was once worked in blackwork, a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, but also blue, green or red, on linen. Now only a few tiny shreds of the black silk embroidery thread remain. The use of iron in the dyeing process (to fix and enhance the black) and exposure to light have caused the threads to disintegrate.

The loss of thread has exposed the original embroidery design, hand-drawn in blue ink. The pattern consists of a variety of single motifs of flowers, birds and insects, very similar to those reproduced in embroidery pattern books of the early 17th century. These motifs were transferred to the linen by pricking the outline of the design on paper, pouncing (dusting with fine dark powder), then joining the dots left on the linen with a fine brush and ink." (V&A Museum)

 

If the coif was originally worked in all black thread, then it's possible to think that the ink was also originally black - but faded to blue over time, just as the black thread disintegrated over time. 

 

 

Embroidering a Blackwork Pattern from a 16th Century Italian Sampler

This embroidery pattern is from an Italian sampler, circa 1600, located at the V&A Museum in London. The sampler features silk embroidery done in a double-running stitch, as well as long-armed cross stitch.

 

 

Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

The full sampler at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70028/sampler/sampler-unknown/ 

For more information on the Italian sampler and other embroidery patterns from this sampler, please visit: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/02/how-to-create-your-own-blackwork-design.html

 

        Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0