Is Beeswax Historically Accurate to Use with Blackwork Embroidery?

This is a question that has been addressed to me a couple of times, such as during a Blackwork 101 class at RUM a couple of years ago and most recently while being judged at a regional A&S faire.


So far, I have not found any sufficient evidence to prove or disprove whether or not beeswax was actually used during the Tudor period for blackwork embroidery. Perhaps this is simply a matter of what the embroiderer prefers to do. Personally, I have never used beeswax before. Until my most recent blackwork project, I have never found a need to use beeswax.


For previous projects, I used Gutermann black silk thread bought at Joann Fabrics. Although this is technically 100% black silk thread, it's not historically accurate. So, for my latest project, a recommendation came from a Laurel to try Soie Ovale (unspun 100% black silk thread) from Hedgehog Handworks. The Gutermann thread is good for anyone who may show signs of being OCD and likes to have everything nice, neat, and orderly. The Soie Ovale is better if you are wanting something more historically accurate as well as something that is shinier and bolder. However, the problem that I have run into with the Soie Ovale is that the under-side is fraying and causing the tension in the pattern to loosen, plus the thread snags very easily.

Recently, I posted this inquiry to an embroidery group. It all seems to boil down to personal preference. Beeswax helps with regular hand-sewing to help keep the thread together without fuzzies or fraying, as well as strengthening the thread itself. One recommendation was to coat on the tail end only of the silk thread to prevent it from fraying. If beeswax is used on the silk thread, it will dull the shine. It was also recommended, if using beeswax, to obtain the beeswax from a beekeeper so that the bar is light and clean, without the flaky residue of bars sold in stores which may be inferior. Also, beeswax becomes harder with age, so use a fresh bar for better softness if using beeswax.


However, the overall preference in regards to using silk thread for blackwork embroidery was to not use beeswax. The beeswax reduces shine and may be more of a hindrance than a help. It may trap dirt and could potentially ruin the final project. Depending on the color of the beeswax, it may also change the color of the silk thread.