Thursday, September 17, 2015

Blackwork Embroidered Caul

I did blackwork embroidery on a caul.  Cauls were essentially a period hairnet.  It covered the hair on the back of the female head and was usually made of fabric.

How to make an Elizabethan caul can be found on Mistress Drea's webpage at http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/caulmake.html


Here is part of Bostocke's sampler from 1598, which I am basing my pattern off of.



Here is the beginning of my caul
 
 
Here is the first completed part of my caul:

 
 
 

The embroidery completed.
 

The caul sitting on a doll's head.






Examples of cauls in history:



Domenico Ghirlandaio's Portrait of a Lady (1480)
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/DOCO/Cauls_diary.htm



http://h-costume.mail.indra.narkive.com/A3hjxYC0/primary-source-for-elizabethan-pillbox-hats-sought:i.13.12.full

How to Do Blackwork Embroidery Stitches

Here is a graph to give a visual idea of how blackwork embroidery is accomplished.

 
 
First, you weave your thread in and out through the fabric.  Typically, I work left to right and count approximately 3 or 5 holes per stitch in linen fabric.  Once the end of the line has been reached, then on the return journey fill in the blank spaces.  On the graph above, I have the stitches numbered in the order they should go in.  It does not matter if you start from left to right or right to left.  The key is to find a good starting place (usually on an end).  The finished product should look like a complete line that is reversible.