What inspired the creation of blackwork embroidery in the 16th century
and what forms of embroidery fall under the category of blackwork, such
as Holbein stitch?
This coif is labelled as a "panel" at the V&A Museum. This particular coif is dated to circa 1600-1630. However, this size and shape of coif was also worn in late 16th century England during the Elizabethan period. The museum describes this coif as "linen with pattern of flowers, birds, insects and animals drawn in blue ink".
"This coif was once worked in blackwork, a style of needlework popular in
England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a
single colour of silk, usually black, but also blue, green or red, on
linen. Now only a few tiny shreds of the black silk embroidery thread
remain. The use of iron in the dyeing process (to fix and enhance the
black) and exposure to light have caused the threads to disintegrate.
The
loss of thread has exposed the original embroidery design, hand-drawn
in blue ink. The pattern consists of a variety of single motifs of
flowers, birds and insects, very similar to those reproduced in
embroidery pattern books of the early 17th century. These motifs were
transferred to the linen by pricking the outline of the design on paper,
pouncing (dusting with fine dark powder), then joining the dots left on
the linen with a fine brush and ink." (V&A Museum)
If the coif was originally worked in all black thread, then it's possible to think that the ink was also originally black - but faded to blue over time, just as the black thread disintegrated over time.
This embroidery pattern is from an Italian sampler, circa 1600, located
at the V&A Museum in London. The sampler features silk embroidery
done in a double-running stitch, as well as long-armed cross stitch.
Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein
stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered
on white linen in a reversible stitch.
This Italian chain pattern is from a 16th century embroidery sampler,
located at the V&A Museum in London. This particular pattern is near
the top, close to the center of the sampler. This embroidery will be
used for cuffs.
Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein
stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered
on white linen in a reversible stitch.
For more historical information (plus a step by step on how to begin) on
blackwork embroidery, please visit:
https://youtu.be/lcZsoB71XZQ
Learn about Holbein Stitch (the earlier form of blackwork embroidery
from the 16th century), along with what type of sewing needle to use,
fabric, embroidery frame, thread, and how to recreate historic patterns.
Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish
stitch, is a reversible counted stitch used in early 16th century
blackwork embroidery.
Blackwork embroidery was made popular in Tudor England by King Henry
VIII's first wife, Katherine of Aragon. Prior to Henry VIII's and
Katherine's divorce, this embroidery had been commonly referred to as
Spanish stitch (since Katherine was Spanish). After their divorce, the
term blackwork was adopted for use to describe this particular type of
embroidery (rather than the previously used term of Spanish stitch).
Hans Holbein the Younger was a European painter, just like his older
brother Ambrosius and his father, Hans the Elder. If you hear the term
'Holbein stitch', it is in reference to Hans the Younger. From his
friendship with Erasmus, he had a letter of introduction and found
himself in England to eventually become a court painter in the court of
King Henry VIII of England. Compared to other artists at the time,
Holbein painted numerous portraits with blackwork embroidery in them.
Discover where to locate historical patterns, how to recreate these
patterns, and watch step by step instructions on how create this lovely
embroidery.
Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish
stitch, is a reversible stitch used in early 16th century blackwork
embroidery. Follow along step by step as I embroider a flower inside of a
braided diamond pattern. Both of these patterns are located on Jane
Bostocke's embroidery sampler from 1598, currently at the V&A Museum
in London.
Watch step by step as the flower pattern from the 16th century is
embroidered. This pattern can be found on both an English sampler (Jane
Bostocke's sampler from 1598) as well as an Italian sampler (located at
the the Museo del Tessuto in Prato, Italy from the late 16th century).
Check out my embroidery books!
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd
Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns).
https://amzn.to/43lwjRp