Monday, March 16, 2026

What is Blackwork Embroidery?

What inspired the creation of blackwork embroidery in the 16th century and what forms of embroidery fall under the category of blackwork, such as Holbein stitch?

 


  Check out my embroidery book! 

16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns 

 

 

 

Saturday, March 14, 2026

Black Ink on a Coif that Faded to Blue?

This coif is labelled as a "panel" at the V&A Museum. This particular coif is dated to circa 1600-1630. However, this size and shape of coif was also worn in late 16th century England during the Elizabethan period. The museum describes this coif as "linen with pattern of flowers, birds, insects and animals drawn in blue ink".
 
 

 
 "This coif was once worked in blackwork, a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, but also blue, green or red, on linen. Now only a few tiny shreds of the black silk embroidery thread remain. The use of iron in the dyeing process (to fix and enhance the black) and exposure to light have caused the threads to disintegrate.

The loss of thread has exposed the original embroidery design, hand-drawn in blue ink. The pattern consists of a variety of single motifs of flowers, birds and insects, very similar to those reproduced in embroidery pattern books of the early 17th century. These motifs were transferred to the linen by pricking the outline of the design on paper, pouncing (dusting with fine dark powder), then joining the dots left on the linen with a fine brush and ink." (V&A Museum)
 
If the coif was originally worked in all black thread, then it's possible to think that the ink was also originally black - but faded to blue over time, just as the black thread disintegrated over time. 
 
 

Monday, March 2, 2026

Embroidering a Blackwork Pattern from a 16th Century Italian Sampler

This embroidery pattern is from an Italian sampler, circa 1600, located at the V&A Museum in London. The sampler features silk embroidery done in a double-running stitch, as well as long-armed cross stitch.

 


 

Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

The full sampler at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70028/sampler/sampler-unknown/ 

For more information on the Italian sampler and other embroidery patterns from this sampler, please visit: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/02/how-to-create-your-own-blackwork-design.html

 

        Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

 

 

Monday, February 23, 2026

Embroidering an Italian Embroidery Pattern from a 16th Century Sampler

This Italian chain pattern is from a 16th century embroidery sampler, located at the V&A Museum in London. This particular pattern is near the top, close to the center of the sampler. This embroidery will be used for cuffs.

 


Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

For more historical information (plus a step by step on how to begin) on blackwork embroidery, please visit: https://youtu.be/lcZsoB71XZQ 

 

     Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 

 

          Picture credit: 

16th Century Italian Sampler at the V&A Museum: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70028/sampler-unknown/

 

Friday, February 13, 2026

16th Century Blackwork Embroidery | Needle, Fabric, Frame, Thread, & Pattern

Learn about Holbein Stitch (the earlier form of blackwork embroidery from the 16th century), along with what type of sewing needle to use, fabric, embroidery frame, thread, and how to recreate historic patterns. Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish stitch, is a reversible counted stitch used in early 16th century blackwork embroidery. 

 

Blackwork embroidery was made popular in Tudor England by King Henry VIII's first wife, Katherine of Aragon. Prior to Henry VIII's and Katherine's divorce, this embroidery had been commonly referred to as Spanish stitch (since Katherine was Spanish). After their divorce, the term blackwork was adopted for use to describe this particular type of embroidery (rather than the previously used term of Spanish stitch). 

Hans Holbein the Younger was a European painter, just like his older brother Ambrosius and his father, Hans the Elder. If you hear the term 'Holbein stitch', it is in reference to Hans the Younger. From his friendship with Erasmus, he had a letter of introduction and found himself in England to eventually become a court painter in the court of King Henry VIII of England. Compared to other artists at the time, Holbein painted numerous portraits with blackwork embroidery in them. Discover where to locate historical patterns, how to recreate these patterns, and watch step by step instructions on how create this lovely embroidery. 

 

Suggested Items for Purchase: 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

Monday, February 2, 2026

Embroidering a Flower and Diamond Pattern by Jane Bostocke, circa 1598

Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish stitch, is a reversible stitch used in early 16th century blackwork embroidery. Follow along step by step as I embroider a flower inside of a braided diamond pattern. Both of these patterns are located on Jane Bostocke's embroidery sampler from 1598, currently at the V&A Museum in London. 

 


  Picture credit: "Sampler." V&A Museum. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O46183/sampler-jane-bostocke/ 

 

       Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

Saturday, January 31, 2026

The Same 16th Century Flower Pattern Found on Both an English & an Italian Embroidery Sampler

Watch step by step as the flower pattern from the 16th century is embroidered. This pattern can be found on both an English sampler (Jane Bostocke's sampler from 1598) as well as an Italian sampler (located at the the Museo del Tessuto in Prato, Italy from the late 16th century). 


        Check out my embroidery books! 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp 
- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI 
 
       Suggested Items for Purchase: 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Hoop Frame: https://amzn.to/3sktIBs 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3m1bsuJ 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0