Another Miniature Painting with Blackwork Embroidery in it Painted by Hans Holbein the Younger?

When working on an unrelated project, I ended up finding myself looking at another potential Holbein miniature with the Royal Collection Trust. 

 

 

 

When enhancing this photograph, there is obviously blackwork embroidery on the man's collar. This portrait does look like it's been inspired by Holbein. As the RCT states, "The art of miniature painting was still in its infancy during the first quarter of the sixteenth century." Perhaps this miniature was painted in Hans Holbein the Younger's workshop? Maybe it was painted by Lucas Horenbout or Susanna Horenbout, or another artist?

 

According to the RCT, "The locket in which the miniature was originally framed bears an inscription identifying the sitter as Guildford and the artist as Hans Holbein the Younger... Examination of the technique used suggests that the miniature may be a contemporary work of c. 1530–5, although by a less skilful hand than Holbein’s." Guildford is in reference to "Sir Henry Guildford (1489–1532), Comptroller of the Royal Household to Henry VIII, was incorrect, but unsurprising. Guildford is shown at the age of 38 in a portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger dated 1527 in the Royal Collection (RCIN 400046) and cannot therefore be the much younger man represented in this near-contemporary miniature, despite the superficial resemblance between the two figures, and the similar, assertive pose deployed in both images." 

 

 

Above is the portrait of Sir Henry Guildford, painted by Hans Holbein the Younger in 1527. The man in the above miniature looks too young, especially for being painted circa 1530-1535, compared to this other portrait of Guildford. So, most likely not the same man and therefore incorrect, as quoted by the RCT above. Guildford was married twice, but did not have any children.

 

Regardless of who the sitter was, I am fascinated by the blackwork embroidery present! 

 

 

This is my interpretation of the embroidery pattern found in columns along the collar in the sitter's miniature portrait. 

 

 

 

 

Historic Slate Frames & How to Dress these Embroidery Frames

A slate frame is a historic type of embroidery frame that has been around for centuries. This specific type of embroidery frame keeps the tension on the fabric even without warping the fabric, like a modern hoop frame would. A slate frame is typically made from wood. It has two horizontal bars and two vertical bars (also known as stretcher bars). The stretcher bars have holes with pegs or notches to hold the horizontal bars in position, to keep the fabric taut. 

 

 

      Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp

​ - Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5

​ - Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI​

 

 

Drafting the Holbein Stitch Pattern from Jane Seymour's Cuffs | Blackwork Embroidery

Step by step of how I draft early 16th century blackwork embroidery, aka Holbein stitch or double-running stitch, patterns from the portrait of Jane Seymour (3rd wife of Henry VIII of England) painted by Hans Holbein the Younger.

 

Hans Holbein the Younger was a European painter, just like his older brother Ambrosius and his father, Hans the Elder. If you hear the term 'Holbein stitch', it is in reference to Hans the Younger. From his friendship with Erasmus, he had a letter of introduction and found himself in England to eventually become a court painter in the court of King Henry VIII of England. Compared to other artists at the time, Holbein painted numerous portraits with blackwork embroidery in them. 

 

             Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp 

- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI

 

 

 

Blackwork Embroidery Found in Hans Holbein the Younger's Portraits

Hans Holbein the Younger was a German painter in the 16th century and became a court painter for King Henry VIII of England. Many of his paintings included blackwork embroidery.

 

  Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp

​ - Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5

​ - Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI​

 

 

 

Different Types of Blackwork Embroidery in 16th Century England

Blackwork embroidery, also known as Holbein Stitch or double-running stitch, started out as a geometric counted stitch in 16th century England and ended the century as a swirly floral embroidery through pouncing.

 

  Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp​ 

- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5​ 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI​

 

 

Order My Embroidery Books Today Before the Price Goes Up!

Starting on June 10, 2025, Amazon will be increasing their prices to print books, which will therefore unfortunately cause the price of my books to go up. 

 

 

Order these books today before the price increases!

16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition): https://amzn.to/4miYBTy

Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st edition): https://amzn.to/4dFFcIN

Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/4jW6sVr

Beginning Blackwork Embroidery, the Basic Steps to Get Started

The basic steps to get started and learn how to do the counted form of blackwork embroidery, also known as Holbein stitch or double-running stitch.

 

 

  Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp

​ - Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5

​ - Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI​

 

 

 

A Brief History of Blackwork Embroidery, aka Holbein Stitch

What inspired the creation of blackwork embroidery and what forms of embroidery fall under the category of blackwork, such as Holbein stitch?

 

      Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp

​ - Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5

​ - Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI

 

      ​ Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Hoop Frame: https://amzn.to/4jRoGa8 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/43aVC84 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/4iIaUWm 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/4jxYj9r 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 

 

Information on Mamluk embroidery can be found on Miriam's Middle Eastern Research blog at: https://awalimofstormhold.wordpress.com/ 

 

16th Century Embroidery and Lace Pattern Modelbuchs Available Online: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2023/12/16th-century-embroidery-and-lace.html 

 

Early 17th Century Portuguese Embroidery Booklet: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/06/early-17th-century-portuguese.html

 

 

Materials Needed to Get Started with 16th Century Blackwork Embroidery

 

Blackwork embroidery, also known as Holbein Stitch or double-running stitch, was found on many garments in the 16th century, including cuffs, partlets, shirts, coifs, and more. This video includes a list of materials recommended for this type of embroidery.

 

     

      Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft)

- Hoop Frame

- Beeswax

- Scissors

- Linen Fabric

- Embroidery Needles

- Craft Stand

- Aida Cloth (for beginners)

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns)

​ - Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition)

​ - Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books

 

 

16th Century Blackwork Embroidery | Needle, Fabric, Frame, Thread, & Pattern

Learn about Holbein Stitch (the earlier form of blackwork embroidery from the 16th century), along with what type of sewing needle to use, fabric, embroidery frame, thread, and how to recreate historic patterns.

 

 

Recently, I made a video where I wanted to see how long I could talk about blackwork embroidery before I had to leave to start my day. After the recording stopped, I realized that there were certain things that I had not discussed (such as embroidery frames), along with pictures that I had wanted to share but did not have time to edit to include. This is a combination of various videos that I have recorded over the last few years. 

 

Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns)

- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition)

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books

 

Check out my latest embroidery book! 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns

In December 2021, I originally put out my first book. Then, in October 2024, I edited this book: Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns.

Between September and October 2024, I released my second book: Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books.

Now, an updated edition to my original book has been released, which includes more historical embroidery patterns not previously seen in my books. Check out my newly released 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns.

 

 

 

How Much 16th Century Blackwork Embroidery Can I Talk About?

Yesterday as the 25th anniversary of the Order of the Evergreen in the Kingdom of the Middle (in the SCA, please see below for more info). While reading about the history, I was inspired to challenge myself to see how much I could talk about blackwork embroidery this morning before my day began.

 

 

 

           Check out my embroidery books! 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns)

- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition)

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books

 

           Other Embroidery Related Videos: 

- Embroidery Frames in History

- How to Dress a Slate Frame

- A Critical Look at Blackwork Embroidery in Holbein's Paintings

- Holbein Stitch: Step by Step

- Introduction to Blackwork Embroidery

 

 Information on Mamluk embroidery can be found on Miriam's Middle Eastern Research blog.

 

For anyone curious about what exactly the 'SCA' is -- The Society for Creative Anachronism is an international, non-profit educational organization that studies and recreates the medieval and Renaissance years of 600-1600AD. For more information and to locate your local branch, please check out SCA.

Yesterday, I Asked ChatGPT to Roast my YouTube Channel

For a little bit of fun, I used ChatGPT for the first time yesterday and had it roast my YouTube channel! 😂

 Check it out here! 

Chelliga Embroidery Sampler Patterns with Double-Running Stitch Circa 1700s

Chelliga is the name for an embroidery sampler from Morocco from the 18th century onwards. They can include a wide variety of colors, stitches, and design. 

Here are a few embroidery patterns from the chelliga at the Cleveland Museum of Art. The double-running stitches appear to have been on every 4th hole in the fabric. "Young women from all social classes would learn these skills from a master craftswoman (mu'allima), who taught within her home."

 

 

 

 

If you look closely, you can find some minor mistakes, such as the incorrect number of holes counted for a stitch which then threw off the other stitches in a small section of the pattern. For example, in the picture above, look at the black thread to see that that section of the design is not centered like the rest of the pattern. 

 

The chelliga was regarded as a certificate or diploma that guaranteed the skills of both the teacher and the student. Unlike European samplers, chelliga do not normally include the name of the worker or a date.

Did Hans Holbein the Younger influence Hans Eworth as a Painter?

Hans Eworth trained in Antwerp as a painter, along with as a goldsmith and a jeweler. In 1540, he became a master freeman in the Guild of St. Luke in Antwerp. By 1545, he was in London, England. 

 

The Guild of Saint of Luke was first mentioned in 1382. In 1442, the guild received special privileges from the city of Antwerp. The guild was a guild for painters and artists until 1795. 

Eworth's style of painting was influenced by the work of Hans Holbein the Younger, who had been a court painter to Henry VIII. Eworth painted many portraits of the gentry and nobility in Tudor England. Eworth’s experimentation with pose and scale are attributed to the variation in pose found in Holbein’s works. The poses, range from miniatures to life-size portraits and from bust-length to full-length, according to the National Gallery of Canada. It’s worth noting that Holbein died in 1543.

Depending on the source, about 26 portraits up to 40 portraits are attributed to Eworth. There may be upwards of 56 portraits attributed to him. He was the principal court portrait painter during the reign of Mary I, from 1553 to 1558. During this time, most of his commissions were from Catholic patrons. Therefore, during the reign of Elizabeth I (a Protestant), he fell out of favor with the court because of the previous association with Catholic aristocrats, even though he himself was a Protestant.

Although he may have fell out of favor, he continued painting during Elizabeth’s reign. For example, he painted Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses in 1569, which is in the Queen’s Drawing Room at Windsor Castle. From 1572 until his death in 1574, he was employed by the Office of Revels to design costumes and decor for Elizabeth I's receptions and pageants.

 

      Works Cited:

- "16th Century Antwerp." Media Storehouse.

- "City of Antwerp." Wikipedia.

- Eworth, Hans. "Anthony Browne, 1st Viscount Montagu." National Portrait Gallery.

- Eworth, Hans. "Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses." Royal Collection Trust.

- Eworth, Hans. "Henry Stuart." National Galleries of Scotland. 

- Eworth, Hans. "James Stewart." Wikipedia.

- Eworth, Hans. "Mary Neville, Lady Dacre; Gregory Fiennes, 10th Baron Dacre." National Portrait Gallery.

- Eworth, Hans. "Queen Mary I." National Portrait Gallery.

- Holbein the Younger, Hans. "Henry VIII." National Museums Liverpool.

- Holbein the Younger, Hans. "Jane Seymour." Kunsthistorisches Museum.

- Holbein the Younger, Hans. "Self-Portrait." Uffizi Gallery.

- Pye, Michael. "Antwerp." The Brussels Time Magazine.

 

 

Was Hans Holbein the Younger a Pupil of Lucas Horenbout?

Lucas Horenbout (or Hornebolte) was a renowned Flemish artist (illuminator), who was employed by King Henry VIII of England in 1525 as a court miniaturist and later appointed to the office of King's Painter in 1534 (this position was renewed in 1544).

 

Twenty-two miniatures have been attributed to Horenbout, dating from c. 1525-c. 1543/4. His later work was overshadowed by the output of his brilliant pupil in the art of miniature painting, Hans Holbein the Younger. 

 

My interpretation of the embroidery pattern found on Katherine of Aragon's miniature portrait by Horenbout:

 

 

My interpretation of the embroidery pattern found on the Portrait Miniature possibly of Anne Boleyn:

 

 

My interpretation of the embroidery pattern found on Henry Fitzroy's nightcap.