Sunday, April 19, 2026

Patterns in Ink on Linen for Blackwork Embroidery | Pouncing

Around 1540 in England, the counted stitch form of blackwork embroidery (also known as Holbein Stitch) gave way to the swirly, floral type of blackwork embroidery that remained popular well into the 17th century. Prick and pounce, otherwise known as pouncing, was a way to transfer the swirly, floral pattern on to the linen and then the embroidery was placed over top of the inked pattern.

 


In England in the early 17th century, patterns for embroidery were provided by print sellers. Many of these were designs inspired by images of birds, animals, insects and plants found in illustrated natural history and botanical books, which were very popular at the time. This was a commercial provision for the needs of the amateur embroiderer; the print sellers not only provided books and separate sheets of embroidery designs but also patterns printed or drawn directly onto a textile ground as seen here. The use by amateur embroiderers of prepared designs was know from at least the 16th century. Mary Queen of Scots, while imprisoned in Lochleven Castle in 1568, petitioned for 'an imbroderer to drawe forthe such worke as she would be occupied about'. 

From the 16th century the publication of embroidery pattern books published spread new and fashionable designs throughout Europe. These could be transferred onto linen by pricking holes along the outlines, pouncing (dusting with fine black powder), then joining the dots with a fine brush and black ink. Professional embroiderers and artists were sometimes hired to draw new patterns freehand. By the early 17th century, embroidery designs were being printed directly onto linen.

 

          Works Cited: 

- “Coif and Forehead Cloth.” V&A Museum. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O251244/coif-and-forehead-unknown/
- Holbein the Younger, Hans. “Unknown Woman.” National Portrait Gallery. https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw01146/Unknown-woman-formerly-known-as-Catherine-Howard
- Holbein d. J., Hans. “Jane Seymour.” Kunst Historisches Museum Wien. https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/966/
 - “Waistcoat Part #2.” V&A Museum. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115757/waistcoat-part-unknown/
- “Woman’s Coif.” Art Institute of Chicago. https://www.artic.edu/artworks/62497/woman-s-coif-altered.

 

Friday, April 17, 2026

Mary, Lady Guildford... Was Her Surname Wooten or Wotton?

According to the Saint Louis Art Museum, Mary, Lady Guildford's surname was Wooten. It also lists her year of death as 1535. However, she died in September 1558.

 


However, also according to the Saint Louis Art Museum, her surname was Wotton.

 


And according to The Met, her surname was Wotton. 

 


So far in my research, I have only found the spelling of Wotton, except for the one example of Wooten from the Saint Louis Art Museum. I will be reaching out to the museum to inquire about the spelling of her surname, as well as correcting her year of death. I know that there was no standardized spelling in the 16th century. For example, Boleyn (as in Anne Boleyn, the 2nd wife of King Henry VIII) had her family's surname was documented as Boleyn, Buleyn, Bolen, Bulleyne, Boleyne, Bolleyne, Boyleyn, Bowleyne, Bulloigne, and Bullen. 

 

According to FamilySearch.org, "Mary Wotton was born in 1499, in Boughton Malherbe, Kent, England, her father, Sir. Robert Wotton, was 44 and her mother, Anne Belknap, was 39." After 26 December, 1523, Mary became the second wife of Sir Henry Guildford, who died on 28 May, 1532 in Kent, England. He was buried in Blackfriars, London, England. 

By July 1540, Mary had married for a second time, this time to Sir Gawain Carew. She died childless in September 1558, at the age of 59.

Mary's sister was Margaret Wotton, Marchioness of Dorset, who was the second wife of Thomas Grey, Marquess of Dorset, and the mother of his children, including Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk (the father of Lady Jane Grey, the 9 Days Queen of England). Two of her brothers held important positions in the government: Edward Wotton (knighted and later appointed sheriff of Kent) was Treasurer of Calais and Nicholas Wotton was a diplomat who arranged the marriage of Henry VIII to his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves, in 1539.

 

According to her burial plaque at St. Mary Churchyard in Devon, England, her surname was indeed Wotton.  

 

 


My interpretation of the inscription above is:

Here beth buried the Lady Mary Guildford daughter … Robert Wotton of Kent knight… wife to … Guildford knight of the garter controller of household to the most nobull (noble) &… of England France & Ireland defender of the faith… the wife of Sir Gawyn Carew knight who ended… the XIIII day of September…

 

An interesting thing, though, is the monument erected in 1589 for Sir Gawen Carew and his wife, Mary, at Exeter Cathedral in Devon, England. Sir Gawen made his will on 11 October 1582, where he asked to buried in Exeter Cathedral, where the monument was later erected, and appointed Francis Russell, 2nd Earl of Bedford, as the overseer. He later died on 25 March 1584, according to Exeter Cathedral. The interesting thing is that Mary died in 1558 and is buried at St. Mary Churchyard in Devon, England. After Mary's death, he later remarried by 1560, this time to Elizabeth Norwich, a lady in Queen Elizabeth's household. In 1587, Lady Carew was listed as one of the ladies of the bedchamber. 

So, I find it interesting that this monument in Exeter Cathedral is devoted to Sir Gawen and his first wife, whom is not buried with him (they're not even buried in the same church). This means he was married to his first wife for about 18 years and then approximately 24 years to his second wife. However, his second wife is not mentioned at all on the monument. 

 

 

         

 

 

Wednesday, April 15, 2026

Received a Notice from Barnes & Noble Regarding My Latest Embroidery Book

My latest embroidery book, 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns is currently available with Amazon and Barnes & Noble. However, I received a notification from Barnes & Noble stating, "Barnes & Noble Press print books must have a retail price of $14.99 or more. Due to increased shipping and printing fees associated with Print Projects, this change helps ensure that authors can cover the costs and earn royalties on the sales of their books. Starting April 22nd, 2026, our platform will not allow the creation of new listings for less than $14.99. If you have any titles retailing for less than $14.99 on May 14th, 2026, we will begin removing those listings from sale."

As I have always kept my books cost effective for people to purchase, I am unwilling to raise the price of my book from $6.99 to $14.99. Hopefully, the book will continue to be available as an ebook with Barnes & Noble.

My book will continue to be available with Amazon, along with my other 2 embroidery books: Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition) and Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books





Monday, April 13, 2026

Embroidering an Italian Pattern from a Sampler Circa 1600 | Blackwork Embroidery

This particular embroidery pattern is from an Italian sampler, circa 1600, located at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The sampler features silk embroidery done in a double-running stitch, as well as white cutwork.

 


Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

For more information on the Italian sampler and other embroidery patterns from this sampler, please visit: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/09/blackwork-patterns-from-italian-sampler.html

 

        Suggested Items for Purchase: 
 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 
 
 
 
         Photo credit: 

 

 

 

Friday, April 3, 2026

Same Pattern in 2 Different 17th Century Embroidery Samplers

When looking at Margaret Barber's English embroidery sampler circa 1661-1663 at The Met, a pattern stuck out to me that I had seen it before elsewhere! 

 

 This pattern is found at the very top of Barber's sampler.

  

That's because it's the same pattern found on Mildred Mayow's English embroidery sampler circa 1633 at the V&A Museum. This pattern is also found on page 100 of my latest book: 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns

 

 

On Mayow's sampler, the pattern is near the bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

Monday, March 30, 2026

Blackwork Embroidery of a Flemish Diamond Pattern from a 1544 Portrait

This embroidery pattern is based on a pattern found on the collar of a woman in a Flemish portrait from 1544. This painting is at the Art Institute of Chicago. 


Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch.

 

      Suggested Items for Purchase: 
 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 
 
 
 
          Picture Credit:
 
Portrait of a Woman (at Art Institute of Chicago): https://www.artic.edu/artworks/110869/portrait-of-a-woman 
 
 
My interpretation of the embroidered pattern on the Woman's collar: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/05/16th-century-blackwork-embroidery.html





Tuesday, March 17, 2026

Flower Pattern Being Embroidered from Jane Bostocke's 1598 English Embroidery Sampler

This 16th century Elizabethan pattern is from an English embroidery sampler by Jane Bostocke (at the V&A Museum) from 1598. Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Usually, it was typically found as black silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch on clothing.

 


          Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA
 - Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 
 
 
          Picture credit:

 

 

Monday, March 16, 2026

What is Blackwork Embroidery?

What inspired the creation of blackwork embroidery in the 16th century and what forms of embroidery fall under the category of blackwork, such as Holbein stitch?

 


  Check out my embroidery book! 

16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns 

 

 

 

Saturday, March 14, 2026

Black Ink on a Coif that Faded to Blue?

This coif is labelled as a "panel" at the V&A Museum. This particular coif is dated to circa 1600-1630. However, this size and shape of coif was also worn in late 16th century England during the Elizabethan period. The museum describes this coif as "linen with pattern of flowers, birds, insects and animals drawn in blue ink".
 
 

 
 "This coif was once worked in blackwork, a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, but also blue, green or red, on linen. Now only a few tiny shreds of the black silk embroidery thread remain. The use of iron in the dyeing process (to fix and enhance the black) and exposure to light have caused the threads to disintegrate.

The loss of thread has exposed the original embroidery design, hand-drawn in blue ink. The pattern consists of a variety of single motifs of flowers, birds and insects, very similar to those reproduced in embroidery pattern books of the early 17th century. These motifs were transferred to the linen by pricking the outline of the design on paper, pouncing (dusting with fine dark powder), then joining the dots left on the linen with a fine brush and ink." (V&A Museum)
 
If the coif was originally worked in all black thread, then it's possible to think that the ink was also originally black - but faded to blue over time, just as the black thread disintegrated over time. 
 
 

Monday, March 2, 2026

Embroidering a Blackwork Pattern from a 16th Century Italian Sampler

This embroidery pattern is from an Italian sampler, circa 1600, located at the V&A Museum in London. The sampler features silk embroidery done in a double-running stitch, as well as long-armed cross stitch.

 


 

Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

The full sampler at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70028/sampler/sampler-unknown/ 

For more information on the Italian sampler and other embroidery patterns from this sampler, please visit: https://tudorblackwork.blogspot.com/2020/02/how-to-create-your-own-blackwork-design.html

 

        Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

 

 

Monday, February 23, 2026

Embroidering an Italian Embroidery Pattern from a 16th Century Sampler

This Italian chain pattern is from a 16th century embroidery sampler, located at the V&A Museum in London. This particular pattern is near the top, close to the center of the sampler. This embroidery will be used for cuffs.

 


Blackwork embroidery is also known as double-running stitch or Holbein stitch. Historically, it was typically found as silk thread embroidered on white linen in a reversible stitch. 

For more historical information (plus a step by step on how to begin) on blackwork embroidery, please visit: https://youtu.be/lcZsoB71XZQ 

 

     Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 

 

          Picture credit: 

16th Century Italian Sampler at the V&A Museum: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O70028/sampler-unknown/

 

Friday, February 13, 2026

16th Century Blackwork Embroidery | Needle, Fabric, Frame, Thread, & Pattern

Learn about Holbein Stitch (the earlier form of blackwork embroidery from the 16th century), along with what type of sewing needle to use, fabric, embroidery frame, thread, and how to recreate historic patterns. Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish stitch, is a reversible counted stitch used in early 16th century blackwork embroidery. 

 

Blackwork embroidery was made popular in Tudor England by King Henry VIII's first wife, Katherine of Aragon. Prior to Henry VIII's and Katherine's divorce, this embroidery had been commonly referred to as Spanish stitch (since Katherine was Spanish). After their divorce, the term blackwork was adopted for use to describe this particular type of embroidery (rather than the previously used term of Spanish stitch). 

Hans Holbein the Younger was a European painter, just like his older brother Ambrosius and his father, Hans the Elder. If you hear the term 'Holbein stitch', it is in reference to Hans the Younger. From his friendship with Erasmus, he had a letter of introduction and found himself in England to eventually become a court painter in the court of King Henry VIII of England. Compared to other artists at the time, Holbein painted numerous portraits with blackwork embroidery in them. Discover where to locate historical patterns, how to recreate these patterns, and watch step by step instructions on how create this lovely embroidery. 

 

Suggested Items for Purchase: 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

Monday, February 2, 2026

Embroidering a Flower and Diamond Pattern by Jane Bostocke, circa 1598

Holbein stitch, also referred to as double-running stitch or Spanish stitch, is a reversible stitch used in early 16th century blackwork embroidery. Follow along step by step as I embroider a flower inside of a braided diamond pattern. Both of these patterns are located on Jane Bostocke's embroidery sampler from 1598, currently at the V&A Museum in London. 

 


  Picture credit: "Sampler." V&A Museum. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O46183/sampler-jane-bostocke/ 

 

       Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 

- Silk thread (Needle in a Haystack): http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_Ovale.html or http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/AVAS_SoiePerlee.html 

- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 

- Beeswax: https://amzn.to/3ZFtwPM 

- Scissors: https://amzn.to/44cTNYx 

- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA 

- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0

 

Saturday, January 31, 2026

The Same 16th Century Flower Pattern Found on Both an English & an Italian Embroidery Sampler

Watch step by step as the flower pattern from the 16th century is embroidered. This pattern can be found on both an English sampler (Jane Bostocke's sampler from 1598) as well as an Italian sampler (located at the the Museo del Tessuto in Prato, Italy from the late 16th century). 


        Check out my embroidery books! 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd Edition of Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns). https://amzn.to/43lwjRp 
- Pre-18th Century Embroidery Patterns (1st Edition). https://amzn.to/4cnysi5 
- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books. https://amzn.to/43VMwwI 
 
       Suggested Items for Purchase: 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Hoop Frame: https://amzn.to/3sktIBs 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3m1bsuJ 
- Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 
 
 
 
 




Thursday, January 29, 2026

Don't Miss Out on my Embroidery Book!

Need something to do inside while its cold outside? Try some historic embroidery patterns from my book!

16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns 

 


 

 

This book is available on Amazon, as well as Barnes & Noble (with a different front cover).  

 


 

 

Monday, January 26, 2026

Connect the Dots to Reconstruct Partially Missing 16th Century Embroidery Patterns on a Sampler

Recreate the embroidery patterns on historical samplers that are missing some of the embroidered threads by essentially playing a game of connect the dots. A double-running stitch means that there are two journeys to make the embroidery pattern look like one solid line and therefore making the embroidery reversible, so that it looks the same on both sides of the fabric. Since it's reversible, if part of a thread is missing, one is still able to fill in the voids to recreate the original pattern.


     Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Patterns from 16th Century Pattern Books: https://amzn.to/3VxcuS3 
- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns (2nd edition on Amazon): https://amzn.to/42NlF4P 
- Slate Frame (T.F. Woodcraft): https://www.tfwoodcraft.com/shop/slate-frames/ 
- Linen Fabric: https://amzn.to/3MnnccA
 - Craft Stand: https://amzn.to/3pYGlR0 

 

        Photo credit: 

- Embroidered Sampler: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/221177

 

 

Monday, January 12, 2026

Embroidered Flower Pattern from Jane Seymour's Cuffs from 1536

Follow along step by step as I embroider a geometric looking flower pattern from the cuffs of Jane Seymour, the third wife of King Henry VIII of England. 


Suggested Items for Purchase: 

- Embroidery Stand: https://amzn.to/468W4Tz 

- Embroidery Hoops: https://amzn.to/467ezHP 

- Sewing Needles: https://amzn.to/3PWtH5d 

- Silk Embroidery Thread: https://amzn.to/3PVh5LB

- 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns book: https://amzn.to/43lwjRp



Monday, January 5, 2026

Where to Find Some Patterns on a 16th Century Italian Embroidery Sampler

This 16th century Italian sampler (Accession Number T.14-1931) is available online at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. It is a linen sampler embroidered with silk thread. Most of the sampler appears to be embroidered in blue and green. However, there is also some red color too. The embroidery stitches on the sampler include cross stitch and back stitch.

 


 

 Don't forget to purchase my latest embroidery book!

 16th to 18th Century Double-Running Stitch Embroidery Patterns