What thread to use?

When I first learned how to do blackwork embroidery, I was taught with embroidery floss.  This type of thread is not historically accurate, nor is it user friendly as it tends to twist and knot itself.  The knots are usually difficult to impossible to undo.  However, as a learning tool, the embroidery floss is acceptable for beginners.  Pictured below is the underside of an earlier work that I did with embroidery floss, to demonstrate the knots.

Silk thread is historically accurate when doing a blackwork embroidery project.  For my first blackwork embroidery project with silk thread, I used Gutermann's silk thread bought at Joann's (http://www.joann.com).  Although it is 100% silk thread, it is thin.  It depends on the type of project and the desired look.  Gutermann's is smooth and tightly spun.  It works well and the knots come out easily enough.  If looking for a thick, shiny thread, then I suggest using Hedgehog Handwork's Soie Ovale (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/fibers_silk.php).  The Soie Ovale is also 100% silk.  However, it is untwisted and has a tendency to snag easily (which causes fraying).  Pictured below are examples of both threads on white linen.

Embroidery with Gutermann's

Embroidery with Hedgehog Handworks'

Blackwork Embroidered Caul

I did blackwork embroidery on a caul.  Cauls were essentially a period hairnet.  It covered the hair on the back of the female head and was usually made of fabric.

How to make an Elizabethan caul can be found on Mistress Drea's webpage at http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/caulmake.html


Here is part of Bostocke's sampler from 1598, which I am basing my pattern off of.

Here is the beginning of my caul

 

 

Here is the first completed part of my caul:

 

 

 

The embroidery completed.

 

The caul sitting on a doll's head.

Examples of cauls in history:



Domenico Ghirlandaio's Portrait of a Lady (1480)
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/DOCO/Cauls_diary.htm



http://h-costume.mail.indra.narkive.com/A3hjxYC0/primary-source-for-elizabethan-pillbox-hats-sought:i.13.12.full

How to Do Blackwork Embroidery Stitches

Here is a graph to give a visual idea of how blackwork embroidery is accomplished.

 

 

First, you weave your thread in and out through the fabric.  Typically, I work left to right and count approximately 3 or 5 holes per stitch in linen fabric.  Once the end of the line has been reached, then on the return journey fill in the blank spaces.  On the graph above, I have the stitches numbered in the order they should go in.  It does not matter if you start from left to right or right to left.  The key is to find a good starting place (usually on an end).  The finished product should look like a complete line that is reversible.

Tudor Embroidery Needles

While researching for my next blackwork embroidery project, I first wanted to find out what period embroidery needles were used (what size were they, what were they made out of, how were they made, etc).  Here is what I found so far: 

By Elizabethan times, needles could be found in steel, bone, brass, and bronze.  Bone needles were most likely used for other crafts such as nalbinding.  Steel was most likely used for making embroidery needles.  In the Viking era, needles were also made from iron.




Viking needles from Coppergate

http://cathyscostumeblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/eye-of-needle-revisited.html






Pictured above are medieval thimbles, needles, and shears from the National Museum in Copenhagen.

http://s389.photobucket.com/user/Haandkraft/media/Museer/Nationalmuseet/fingerbol_nale_saks_middelalder.jpg.html#sthash.D8rnQ6Op.qjtu









Enhanced portrait of Costanza Caetani (circa 1480-1490) with pins, thimble, and sewing needle.



http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/style-of-domenico-ghirlandaio-costanza-caetani






The Needlemaker (1583)
http://www.nuernberger-hausbuecher.de/75-Amb-2-279-58-r

Blackwork Embroidery Patterns

 

Portrait of Jane Seymour (third wife of King Henry VIII of England) painted by Hans Holbein the Younger (circa 1540)

Pattern for the cuffs on Jane Seymour's sleeves (pictured above)



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Another portrait of Jane Seymour's cuffs (circa 1636) by Hans Holbein



The blackwork embroidery pattern for the cuffs pictured above.



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Blackwork embroidery pattern from neck ruff of James Stewart, Earl of Moray (half-brother to Mary, Queen of Scots). 

http://www.geocities.ws/lynnaea_fairchild/designs.html

Blackwork Embroidery on Pillow Covers

Here are a few examples of blackwork embroidered pillow covers that existed circa 1600 AD in England:




"Black silk embroidery on linen in double running, stem, and coral stitches, with buttonhole fillings. All around runs a wavy border of foliage and flowers. The field is occupied by a symetrically arranged design of interlaced scrolling stems which bear a great variety of flowers (rose, honeysuckle, carnation, columbine, sweetpea, etc.)." (http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O317151/pillow-cover-unknown/)







"Coiling vine-stems," (http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O317803/pillow-cover/)





(http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/228956?rpp=30&pg=1&rndkey=20150322&ft=*&what=Embroidery%7cPillows%7cLinen&pos=9)




For my latest project, I am working on embroidering a pillow cover. My pillow cover is not as elaborate as the ones pictured above, but I prefer simple patterns that are not as busy as the ones pictured above.


Here are pictures of my progress thus far:

Embroidery Frames in History

At the last two blackwork embroidery classes that I taught, inquiries came up about what type of frame to use. While doing some research, here is what I have discovered so far.
 
Circular frames appear to have emerged in history during the 18th century. This frame style was popular with tambour work, as seen below.
 

 

 

 
Tambour frames work well with embroidering small items, such as a handkerchief.  Below is a portrait of Madame de Pompadour with her tambour work.
 

 
 

 
However, prior to this time period, slate frames were used for embroidery.  A slate frame helps to keep the fabric taut while it is being embroidered, allowing for even stitches. A slate frame has four perpendicular sides with pegs or notches to help keep the fabric secure.
 
Below is an example of a slate frame.
 

 
 

One can use a scroll frame and dress it up to work as a slate frame. Below is an example of a scroll frame being used as a slate frame.
 

 
 


 
Here is an example of silk embroidery done in 1568:
 
  (Standebuch, 1568)
 
 (Same picture as above)
 
 

Below are other various historical examples of slate frames being used for embroidery.

(Album Amicorum of Gervasius Fabricius, 1603)
 
 
 
(painted by Francesco Cossa, 1476-84)
 
 

(woodcut by Alessandro Paganini, 1532)
  (painting by Antonio Armorosi in 1720)
 
 



(1627)
 
 
 
 
 
 
Works Cited
 
http://www.larsdatter.com/standebuch.htm
 
https://www.pinterest.com/isiscat/sewing-tools-embroidery-frames/
 
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_5.html#fig_198
 
http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/slate_frame.html
 
http://englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.com/2012/11/tambour-work.html
 
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/c/cossa/schifano/1march/1march_1.html
 
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/354979

My Class Notes from today's Winged Hills Collegium event

 Today I taught another Introduction to Blackwork Embroidery at the Winged Hills' Collegium event. The class had a good turnout for the number of students. My apologies for forgetting to bring my binder which has various samples of blackwork embroidery as it was used during the Tudor era.

Here are portraits and website links to the portraits of some of the pictures I have in my binder collection:

 

http://tudorhistory.org/edward/edwardmonkey.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

https://stitchesoftime.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/nostell-priory-moore-pic-4.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

https://stitchesoftime.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/nostell-priory-moore-pic-3.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.crownedheadsmillinery.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Henry-VIII.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.autumnalwind.com/joan/medemb/coif1.gif

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/choward.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.dragonlore.net/

 

 

 

 

 

http://pomoboho.blogspot.com/2008/03/blackwork-sampler-1.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.pinterest.com/selawall/blackwork/

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.pinterest.com/chrissiefreeth/blackwork/

 

 

 

A website to visit for various blackwork patterns is at http://www.blackworkarchives.com/.