Suggestions for a More Historically Accurate Blackwork Embroidery Kit

So, you want to start doing blackwork embroidery? Or maybe you have done some blackwork embroidery before and want suggestions on how to make your next more project more historically accurate?

When I first learned blackwork embroidery, I used cross stitch canvas with embroidery floss and a scroll frame. I had scissors with a plastic handle. Then, I upgraded my fabric up to linen and began using a hoop frame. The use of silk thread was suggested to me. The list goes on.

So, in no specific order, here are some suggestions for improving your 16th century blackwork embroidery kit to be a little more historically accurate.

Slate frames are great for historical accuracy. Plus, these frames do not warp your fabric and mess with your tension like hoop frames do (although hoop frames are better for transportation purposes, in my opinion). Slate frames also do not move around as much as scroll frames do (in my experience, the tension usually loosened over time). To learn how to dress a slate frame, click here.

During the 16th century, needles appear to have been made from steel or iron. The main concern is to find a needle that is dainty with a small eye. The larger the eye, then the increased chance of the linen having random larger holes in it from the eye. One easy option for a needle would be DMC needles, which are nickel-plated stainless steel needles. I would recommend a needle size 24, 26, or 28, so that the needle does not warp the linen.

For holding your needles, you could make a needlebook, such as this one. However, the first needlebook on record appears to have been from the late 1800's. For a more historically accurate option, a wooden bobbin like the one at the Mary Rose Museum would be ideal. The wooden bobbin is hollow and has a wooden cork (or plug) on the one end.

Silk thread is historically accurate for blackwork embroidery. Based on my previous experiences, I would recommend using twisted silk thread instead of untwisted silk thread. For either type of thread, look for soie ovale (untwisted) or soie perlee (twisted). Especially for the untwisted silk thread, I highly recommend using beeswax for the ends of the threads to help prevent fraying.

Beeswax has been around for centuries. It was used for a variety of things, such as candle-making and soaked in linen to create a Tupperware-type seal on bowls. It has also been used to prevent threads from fraying. For more information about whether to use beeswax or not, please visit here.

Linen was the most common fabric that had blackwork embroidery on it during the 16th century. Other fabrics were also used, but not nearly as much. The linen fabric does not need to be an even-weave fabric. Bleached white was the color of linen used in western Europe. In previous centuries, an unbleached white was common in the Egyptian (Moorish) territories.

Snips or scissors are also good to have in your embroidery kit. Check out this link for more information on the different styles of scissors through history.

Normally, I do not find the need to have a thimble when I am doing blackwork embroidery. However, if you would like to have a thimble handy, then look at this link for more information on the different types of thimbles over the centuries.

For containing my embroidery kit, I use a simple basket with a lid (flap) on either side of the handle. This is just one suggestion of how to carry your embroidery kit. My main recommendation for being more historically accurate would be to not carry your items around in a plastic grocery bag (which was my first embroidery bag).

If you have any questions on how to improve your embroidery kit for a more historically accurate blackwork project, please ask.