Around 1540 in England, the counted stitch form of blackwork embroidery (also known as Holbein Stitch) gave way to the swirly, floral type of blackwork embroidery that remained popular well into the 17th century. Prick and pounce, otherwise known as pouncing, was a way to transfer the swirly, floral pattern on to the linen and then the embroidery was placed over top of the inked pattern.
In England in the early 17th century, patterns for embroidery were provided by print sellers. Many of these were designs inspired by images of birds, animals, insects and plants found in illustrated natural history and botanical books, which were very popular at the time. This was a commercial provision for the needs of the amateur embroiderer; the print sellers not only provided books and separate sheets of embroidery designs but also patterns printed or drawn directly onto a textile ground as seen here. The use by amateur embroiderers of prepared designs was know from at least the 16th century. Mary Queen of Scots, while imprisoned in Lochleven Castle in 1568, petitioned for 'an imbroderer to drawe forthe such worke as she would be occupied about'.
From the 16th century the publication of embroidery pattern books published spread new and fashionable designs throughout Europe. These could be transferred onto linen by pricking holes along the outlines, pouncing (dusting with fine black powder), then joining the dots with a fine brush and black ink. Professional embroiderers and artists were sometimes hired to draw new patterns freehand. By the early 17th century, embroidery designs were being printed directly onto linen.
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