Mrs. Jane Small's Blackwork Embroidery Done in Wool Thread?

Blackwork embroidery was quite popular in 16th century England. The use of black silk thread can be found on various museum artifacts today.

However, due to the Act, or Statute, of Apparel (and the various revisions made during the course of Henry VIII's and through Elizabeth I's reigns), only people of a certain station and above could wear silk embroidery. For example, the wives of barons' sons, or of knights, as well as duchesses, countesses, and anyone else in a high station, could wear embroidery with silk thread. 

Mrs. Jane Small at the V&A Museum

Above is Mrs. Jane Small, formerly Ms. Pemberton, circa 1536-1540. She was the wife of a prosperous London cloth merchant, Nicholas Small. 

She is quite obviously wearing blackwork embroidery on her collar and cuffs (see the patterns below). However, since she was not of a certain station in life, she would not have been allowed to wear silk embroidery. So, more than likely, she used black wool thread for her embroidery. 

Sadly, any clothing such as this probably no longer exists, as it was usually re-used with new clothing and/or handed down after death until the clothing item became rags (the embroidery along with it). 

But, it's interesting to think of how she was able to still create the fashionable blackwork embroidery, just with wool thread instead of silk thread, to stay within the limitations of the Acts of Apparel (aka sumptuary laws).